Cody Ice Climbing

Tim, Jaaron, Aarona, Cory and I made it up to Cody this year for some ice climbing.  We all split a super plush cabin right near the climbing which cut our commute to the ice down from an hour to 10 minutes.  It was a great year for ice this year, many routes that rarely form were very fat.  I had a list of classics to do while we were up there but didn't really do any because we kept finding stuff that rarely forms to climb.  We figured we might as well save the stuff that always forms for next year.

Tim following 'Cabin Fever'

 After around 17hrs of driving because of horrible roads, we arrived at our cabin at 1am to -22 degree temps.  Needless to say Tim and I took it easy the next day.  We climbed 'Cabin Fever' with the planned of tacking on 'Wyoming Wave'.  Unfortunetly after climbing CF we walked past WW's first pitch saying, "that can't be it".  Well apparently it was.  After postholing up the wrong drainage for a very long time we finally decided that the small frozen falls we had seen likely was the correct pitch.  We turned around, climbed the pitch and called it a day, skipping the last two pitches.

Tim leading the 4th pitch of 'Spying and Flying'

 The next day we decided to hike in and check out 'Spying and Flying' and Ro Sham Bo'.  Somehow a 2 mile approach took a solid two hours of pretty fast hiking to complete.  Tim had been back there before but luckily for me he hadn't done all the pitches he had wanted to.

Tim following 'Ro Sham Bo'

We got back to the car well after dark but got some great pitches in!

Tim leading 'Sendero Illuminoso'

 After all the hiking the day before we wanted a shorter approach so we opted for 'Sender Illuminoso' which apparently rarely forms as big as it did this year.

Tim following 'Scratch My Itchy'

On what ended up being our last day of ice climbing we climbed 'Super Blue Moon' which is to the left of the uber classic 'High on Boulder'.  We climbed its 3 pitches and continued up the drainage to the spectacular 'Scratch My Itchy'.  What a great way to end a great trip!

Stairway to Heaven

For the last two winters Amanda has ice climbed a day or two each winter.  Even with her minimal days out each winter she has been steadily picking off San Juan Classics.

Approaching Stairway to Heaven

In years past she climbed, Ames Ice Hose, Bridalveil Falls, The Calling, and Whorehouse Hoses.  On Thursday Tim, Jaaron, Amanda, and I got out and added Stairway to Heaven to that list.

Tim belaying Jaaron on pitch 1.

 We split into two teams with Tim and Jaaron climbing first and Amanda and I trying to keep up.  Although the temps were a chilly 4 degrees at the trailhead when we left the vehicles, it turned out to be a beautiful pleasant sunny day.

Amanda and I on the way down.  

Hite Towers

Trevor, Emily and I made plans to check out some towers near Hite, Utah.  I'd never been that far west of Blanding on 95 so I was stoked!  I got out of work and drove straight to Blanding to pick them up.  We filled the Ranger with camping gear, climbing gear and people and headed out.  By the time we got out to our first objective it was afternoon.  We pulled over under Middle Finger Tower and racked up.

Middle Finger Tower with the Henry Mountains behind. 

Emily took the first pitch ending on a rubble filled ledge.  I was up next, a mix of aid and free slowly got me to the top.  The pucker factor was high in spots but luckily everything worked.  This little tower turned out to be super cool with spectacular views. 

The sun was starting to get low in the sky so we hurried back to the car and drove on.  The road got rough for a bit but we made it through and found a camp spot below the next day's objectives.

Sewing Machine and Sewing Machine Needle

This was our main goal, The Sewing Machine Needle.  A beautiful thin wind gate tower in a remote location!  If things went well the plan was to check out the butte next to the needle, it was aptly named the Sewing Machine.  We couldn't find any reports of routes on the butte and thought maybe we'd be the first to climb it, or at least put a new route on it.   The Needle was chilly to say the least.  We started in the shade and by the time we got into the sun the wind had picked up.  I lead the free first pitch and Trevor took the long aid pitch to the summit.

The Sewing Machine Needle

 It was afternoon by the time we were back on the ground and thinking about the butte.  We decided to at least check it out.  We walked the western side looking for possible lines.  We decided on a line on the southern tip that wasn't proud but would get us to the summit quickly.  I took the first pitch stopping 20' below the summit because of bad rope drag.  Unfortunetly, as soon as we summited it became apparent that we were not the first to climb the butte or the route!  There was an anchor with fresh looking bolts and webbing.  Still a fun climb and summit to cap a great day.

Hiking back to camp.

Having completed all of our planned objectives, that night we brainstormed for tomorrows possible objectives.  We settled on The Bishop.  Another windgate tower just up the road in North Wash.  The next morning we four wheeled back out to 95 and turned west once again to find The Bishop.  Although the approach looked heinous from the truck it went quickly and we were at the base of a super cool, little 3 pitch free route before we knew it.  I took the first pitch, Emily styled the second pitch splitter and Trevor took the wide summit pitch.  Once again a super fun desert trip comes to an end.  Thanks for the fun times!  Oh and Trevor and/or Emily took all these photos....