Saturday, May 19, 2012

Valley of the Gods Part 2

So two weeks later the three of us plus Jeff were able to take a day off and go check out that unknown tower.

It's dangerous asking around about a climb that you think might be an FA.  It draws people attention to it before you've had a chance to get out and climb it.  I find it's better to head out there prepared for and FA and if it's been climbed it's been climbed.  That's what we did.  We looked through the books and online and found no info on the unknown tower so we carried the kitchen sink up there to have a look.

Half way up the first pitch I noticed bolts on pitch two above me.  Damn it!  When this happens you tell your self, "Well at least we have been saved a lot of work and all the bolts be brought up can be put to use on some thing else."

Anyways the route was super fun!  I lead pitch one and brought up Ian and Bill then promply called pitch two if no one else wanted it.  With Jeff on the ground he had no say in the matter.  Bill and Ian said ok and I was off before they could realize what they had agreed to.  As I was leading pitch two Jeff came up and discovered me leading the next and final pitch and threw a hissy fit.  Of course I procceded to get shit from all three of them for the rest of the climb, "you stole the lead", "way to be a team player...NOT", and on it went.   All I have to say is I don't think they would have gotten to the top of the tower with out me dragging them up the thing!

Hopefully we will figure out some history and get the real name.  But until then, to save the world from another unnamed route we called the tower "Brides of Mine" and the route is "Yes Dear".
Ian on pitch 1.
Leading pitch 2.
High on pitch 2.
Bill jugging pitch 2.
Ian looking towards Tides of Mind.

Thigh tanning.
Ian trying to free the bolt ladder.
Bill still thigh tanning.
The price we pay.
With no drilling needed we were done pretty early and thus headed over to another tower none of us had climbed, "Lady in a Bathtub".  Jeff had climbed the first pitch solo in the past but didn't summit.  I was told that I was not to lead on this tower to make up for "Brides of Mine".  Fine by me.
Great day in the desert guys!
Hiking up to "Lady in a Bathtub"
Bill on pitch 1.
Jeff's angry face.
Jeff near the top of pitch 2. 
On Top.
Bill heading for the car.