On September 12th Amanda and I pulled into the Kilpacker trailhead parking lot around 9:30pm and crawled into the back of the vehicle to sleep.
We had tried to climb these two 14,000' peaks together multiple times between 2004-2006, but every time the weather would turn ugly and some combination of rain, hail and lightning would turn us around. Our weather this time however looked splitter.
We woke at 3am and left the TH at 3:30. Amanda set a fast pace in the dark and before long we were in Kilpacker Basin and then heading up El Diente.
As we ascended the southern
slopes of El Diente the terrain got gradually more exposed and technical. Just below the ridge we paused to put on our helmets. At the ridge the wind picked up a little and the cold bit through our clothing so we kept moving, summiting El Diente at 8am. The traverse as always requires route finding and caution. There are many places with loose rock and big exposure. Amanda did amazingly well for not having been in that kind of terrain in many years. We finished the traverse and the short section of ridge to the Mt. Wilson summit. Arriving just before 10:30am.