While climbing in the creek last week, Luke and Tim pointed out a few towers. So this week I drove back out to check them out. I ended up climbing the Lavender Towers.
Approach-
Hike up wash until you encounter a ridge line that heads straight to the base of the towers. 40 min to base with a heavy pack. The approach pitches start right of the towers and ascend the gulley behind the towers. Cairn marks the start.
Climb up and right on loose blocks and ledges then left into a chimney to its top. Walk down the slope to the gulley. 100ish feet, gear belay, 5.easy.
Pitch 2-
Climb up a crack system to under a giant chockstone. Traverse right on the face then up to on top of the chock stone. Hike up slope to a shrub/tree belay. 60ish feet, 5.7. (The route on West Lavender starts in the notch and climbs the north face).
Climb up a crack system to under a giant chockstone. Traverse right on the face then up to on top of the chock stone. Hike up slope to a shrub/tree belay. 60ish feet, 5.7. (The route on West Lavender starts in the notch and climbs the north face).
Pitch 3-
Climb loose terrain up the gulley to the next lower angle terrain. Belay at tree/shrubs. 60' 5.7.
Climb loose terrain up the gulley to the next lower angle terrain. Belay at tree/shrubs. 60' 5.7.
Climb up the shallow rotten corner that starts out wide. Continue up to the two giant chock stones. Move right and mantel onto the right side of the first. Traverse up and left across the chockstone. Step left onto the small arête and climb up to the notch on friable rock. Climb North Lavender first so the rope pulls clean on the way down. Scramble across the loose notch and climb the south face of North Lavender passing two protection bolts on the way. Belay at 2 bolts. The summit is a 15' scramble away. 5.9+ C1. Enjoy the view and scope out South Lavender.
Rappel 50' to notch and build a gear anchor.
Pitch 5-
Once back at the notch aid up the thin north facing crack on South Lavender. The crack gradually widens to #1 and is capped with blocks. Mantel up and right on to ledge avoiding the blocks. Move right across the ledge 10' and climb the short wide crack to a small ledge. Carefully traverse left around to the NE face. Place gear in a horizontal crack and face climb to the top of the tower. Belay at two bolts on the NW side. 5.9 C1
Once back at the notch aid up the thin north facing crack on South Lavender. The crack gradually widens to #1 and is capped with blocks. Mantel up and right on to ledge avoiding the blocks. Move right across the ledge 10' and climb the short wide crack to a small ledge. Carefully traverse left around to the NE face. Place gear in a horizontal crack and face climb to the top of the tower. Belay at two bolts on the NW side. 5.9 C1
Rappel 200' to the top of pitch 2.
Pitch 6-
Climb up to notch then onto a spaced out bolt ladder on the north face of West Lavender. Belay is two bolts. (One of which is the last bolt in the bolt ladder. An additional bolt on the summit would be a nice addition.)
Rappel 100' to the ground, landing 100' left of where you started.
Double set of cams from .1-3 camalot, single 4 & 6, single set of stoppers, runners, two 60m ropes.
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