Denver University

Every year Denver University's Alpine Club takes a trip down to southwest Colorado to ice climb in Ouray and ski in Telluride.  This year the weather ended up working out great for them.  The skiers got some fresh powder and the ice climbers got to climb super fat ice in warm temps.  As always it was a great time with a super fun group!  We look forward to next year!

Sporting a sweater and a hat so big it fits over his helmet!

Exiting the "Ice Tunnel".

Dream Catcher

On February 3rd Jeff and I went out to Arch Canyon to try and climb both Dream Catcher and Dream Speaker in a day. Jeff had not climbed since Million Dollar Tower in November.  His shoulder is feeling better than it did back then but it's still pretty painful.  I made him carry his own pack this time around, despite the note he gave me from his Physical Therapist that said he is old/weak/brokem and that I should basically carry him to the tower.  We parked on the rim and did a rappel to get into the canyon.  Hiking down the steep hill all I could hear behind me was ouch....... ouch.... ouch.................... ouch, every time his arm would get jarred a little.  

But we made it to the base of Dream Catcher and racked up.  Jeff was able to lead pitches 2 and 4 with what appeared to be less pain then the hiking in.  Once we rappeled and did the traverse pitch to the base of Dream Speaker we decided that we were running low on time.  We decided to leave Dream Speaker for another day and start the 2 hour return trip to the car.  On the way out we found a path that required no fixed rope and took a few minutes to look at an indian ruin.  Arriving back at the car minutes before dark we felt a little justified for bailing on Dream Speaker. 

I'm stoked to have Jeff back in action!

Jeff back in action!

Dream Speaker(R) and Dream Catcher(L) viewed from the rim.

Jeff rappeling in from the rim.

We should have brought out ice tools!

Old indian ruins.

Dream Catcher from the south side.

Dream Speaker

Indian ruin

Now that is some old corn!

Ice Park to the Backcountry

Mike just came out for a few days of ice climbing in Ouray.  We started out in the Ouray Ice Park and then headed out to the backcountry for the next two days.  Our first backcountry route was Dexter Creek Slabs just north of Ouray.  Right now we have a winning combination; Dexter is in super fat with and has very little snow for the approach.  On the final day we drove down to Eureka and climbed the ultra classic Whorehouse Hoses.  Finishing with both of the third pitch options made for a great day in the mountains!

Great climbing with you Mike!

BK

Day 1 in the Ice Park!

Hiking up to Dexter

Rappeling Dexter.

Hiking to Whorehouse Hoses

Mike finishing the 3rd pitch of Whorehouse Hoses

Mike rappeling pitch 2 of Whorehouse Hoses

Mike headed down after climbing Whorehouse Hoses.

The VOG

It had been a while since I'd been to the desert.  So when it worked out that Bill and I were able to sneak away for a day in Valley of the Gods I was stoked!  I picked up Bill at 5:30am and by the time we pulled into VOG it had warmed up to a balmy 15 degrees.  Luckily there was no wind and the sun was out.

We started out the day with a small tower called Sitting Hen and then moved over to Petard.  As we touched back to the ground after rappeling off the top of Petard I thought things were going great, two towers down and only one to go.  The ropes were pulling smoothly and then suddenly stopped... shit.
The end of the rope as it snaked up the tower had gotten stuck on top of pitch 2.  We pulled and bounced and changed out angle but to no avail.  I was getting pretty Hangry at that point and was ready to just leave the rope.  Bill was not about to leave 200' of rope hanging off a tower even if it was a crappy old rope.  He started jugging the questionable "fixed" line simultaniously placing gear on lead incase the "fixed" line became unfixed.  He go to the top of the second pitch and freed the rope then rappeled back down using the rappel stations we had skipped.  Next up was the Anvil.  We decided to try and free a route called 'Iron Bear Crack' which ended up going at about 5.10.  We watched a great sunset on top then hurried back to the car.

Great day in the desert! Can't wait for the next!

Summit of Sitting Hen

Subaru advertisement with Petard in the background.

Bill following the first pitch of Petard.

Last pitch of Petard

Top of Petard with Anvil in the background.

Starting up The Anvil.

Anvil's Mascot.

The VOG.

Bill was so excited about the light. 

Heading back to the car.

Hall of Justice

Matt and I went up to Ouray last week and climbed at the Hall of Justice.  Super fun!

Matt on Pull the Trigger

Skiing Anvil Mtn.

Amanda and I went with a few friends up to Anvil Mtn. north of Silverton, this morning.  For 4 out of 5 of us it was our first turns of the winter.  A little thin in spots but it was great to be out!

Starting out.

Gretchen and Amanda loving the steep skin track.

Pete, Amanda, Gretchen, and Thad

Amanda

Amanda has had enough of Thad's singing!

Anvil summit at 12,537'.

Headed back down to the skis.

The Best of the Best in Moab Oct. 2012

October is a great time to climb in the Moab area.  The weather is generally good and the temps are perfect.  Unfortunately most of Colorado also knows this and heads for the desert every fall weekend.

I met Sean at a coffee shop on Monday morning and we decided to hike up to Castleton and climb the classic Kor-Ingalls route.  The last time I climbed Kor-Ingalls was 10 years ago with the woman I married.  Sean and I got to know each other as we hiked up the talus cone to the tower.  Four pitches of great climbing put us on the top of the tower, which was Sean's first desert tower.  The route was pretty much what I remembered although I remember the OW pitch feeling a little more runout.
The next day we climbed at Indian Creek which is the most famous crack climbing area in the world.  Known for it's clean parallel cracks, it's a great place to practice crack climbing technique, whether you climb 5.13 or 5.9.
On our last day we climbed the incredible Ancient Art, made famous by the Citi Bank commercial.  With a team of 3 in front of us and a team of 4 behind it was a little clustered.  At one point all 9 of us were on one belay ledge!
Sean it was great climbing with you!  Hope to see you soon!

Looking up at Kor-Ingalls.

Kor-Ingalls

Hot feet.

Sean

Summit!

Back on the ground.

Chocolate Corner

Ansaid Tower

Generic Crack

Looking Glass Rappel

Ancient Art with Cottontail and Echo behind.

The summit corkscrew.